Bridesmaid Bodice, Part 1

I patterned all the bodices based on the one from Simplicty 4070. For the design on the far right (the crossover one), I split it at the underbust and then draped the new upper front piece to lay over the existant upper bodice from the original pattern. Here's how I went about constructing them:


The upper bodice interlining before sewing.



The fabric layer of the upper bodice.




Pin each pleat of the upper bodice on the
wrong side and...

 

Stitch! You only need to stitch the
seam allowance plus about an inch.

After stitching, press each pleat towards the side seam and repeat for the other upper bodice piece. Then, onto basting!



Starting at the top, from side seam to center, lay
the left  side over the upper bodice interlining.  Make sure
the wrong side of the bodice is on the right side of the lining.
Repeat for the bottom. Pin in place, then machine baste.

Press under the front edge of the right bodice piece. Using pins, mark your center front and 5/8" down from the top; this is the cross-over point. Lay the bodice piece as you did the left, but only pin along the center front fold. Flip the fabric, right side to right side, and stitch the seam allowance down at 1/8" in from the seam line. This will allow for a nicer fold.



Lay the bodice back over, right side showing and pin and baste as for the left side. This is the end result.

For the lower portion of the front bodice (and for the lower back pieces, as well) there is a pewter sash consisting of an underlayer of pewter satin seamed at the sides, side fronts and side backs (this eliminates darting) and a chiffon piece. The front and side fronts are seamed together and the side backs and backs are also seamed together, leaving side seams and center back unsewn. The chiffon is cut 3x longer than the actual sash piece, with the top and bottom matching the width of the actual piece.


The front sash pieces.

Then just run two gathering stitches on each side (I did one at 5/8" and at 1/2") and start pinning the top and bottom of the chiffon to the satin piece.



Next, pull the gathers to fit at each side seam. Machine baste the sides, top and bottom.



This is the end result. The taughtness that comes when worn creates the random folds in the chiffon.




Back to posting!

Ugh, I had finally lost out to real life for a bit. I'm getting back in the swing of things with my hobbies and will be posting shortly as I go along making a bridal party commission. This is the group of designs I came up with:


The bridesmaids dresses are black with a pewter contrast.



The bride's going away dress.

The posts to follow with cover the bodice/sash contruction as well as constructing the skirt with a built-in petticoat.